by Kim Waddoup
Sometimes it’s good to be different! This certainly was the Motto by which eminent members of the Moscow Good Food Club were welcomed as the made their way through the doors of the charming Burov and Sova Russian Bistro on Kuznetsky Most. In a short time since its opening this rather humble establishment has made quite a name for itself!
Rather than the normal Aperitif and Canapes favoured my most Restaurants, the talented Chef at Burov & Sova decided to welcome us with a vast buffet consisting of Russian favourites including Deer, Duck, Roast Beef, Beef Tongue, home made duck and deer pate, amazing Rabbit pirogi’s, his own unique black caviar and much more!. To complete the uniqueness of this welcome we were invited to savour the delightful tastes of their Wormwood and Horseradish house liqueurs. This really set the mood for the evening. Following an introduction we were asked to take our seats in the main hall.
This Russian feast continued with a Sauerkraut soup with smoked duck washed down with a glass of the unique Garlic & Pepper Polugar. This was followed shortly after by another Russian favourite, Herring under a Fur Coat with fragrant Pacific Herring, roasted vegetables and light beetroot mouse accompanied by our first Russian wine of the evening, a light, rather young Sibirkoviy Vedernikov 2014.
The next dish was quite a surprise, Kamchatka Crab cooked in butter with cheese and tomatoes. Initially many were intrigued y the cheese covering the crab and the first bites did confirm that this was maybe too much protein at one time, however, almost as if by magic, the plates were cleaned and nothing left to waste. Maybe this was due to the impeccable taste of the Roussane de Gay – Kodzor 2015.
The next dish was a meat Skoblyanka of beef, pork and duck with white mushrooms and salted pickles. The dish favoured a hearty creamed sauce that was then delicately balanced by the inclusion of a specific berry that broke the creamy flavour and cleansed the palate. However the robust Dostoiny Premium Zaporozhskoe from 2014 was excellently paired proving to admirably complement the intricate flavours of this exceptional Skoblyanka.
Dessert was a generous slice of Bird Cherry pie with orange sauce which proved to be a tart tasting cake and a speciality of the restaurant when the bird cherries are in season. The almost bitter flavour of the cake was beautifully balanced by the superb Muscat White Red Stone. An amazing wine and a superb end to a magnificent Russia banquet worthy of a Tsar.
With our members suitably fortified the spokespeople from each table, eloquently delivered their Critiques. All were unanimous in their praise of Burov and Sova and the amazing efforts of their talented Chef, Vlad Labutin. They all admired his creativity combined with his respect for tradition in preparing an excellent meal.
Excellent ratings for an independent restaurant. All were unanimous for their praise for the waiters who carried our their duties so proficiently and quietly, it was almost as if they were not even there. Hearty congratulations to this excellent team.
As is the custom at the Moscow Good Food Club our members were challenged with the question: ‘Winter is just around the corner. Imagine someone coming to Moscow for the first time to start work, what essentials would you recommend?’ Well inebriated, naturally the range of answers went from practical to sublime to the ridiculous including bringing ample supplies of bacon & sausages, bring plenty of vitamin D, obtain a large box of Polugar, buy a season ticket to a banya, good hat, gloves and good shoes. However it was mostly agreed that a sense of humour would be most essential to face a Moscow winter.
Bidding their fond farewells, the members left these hallowed halls and made their way back to real life!